Good Enough to Buy by the Tub

Baci Gelato in Albertson opened last September, but many people who live nearby have only recently discovered this sweet spot, tucked away on a commercial stretch of Willis Avenue. A cheerful dessert cafe with orange walls, a blue-tiled floor and a half-dozen tables with chairs in rainbow colors, it seems ready made for summer crowds looking to cool off.

Two domed gelato freezers display up to 40 flavors at a time, made fresh on the premises. Classics like stracciatella (Italian-style chocolate chip), coffee and pistachio share the bill with lemon, Amarena cherry and mango in a rotating selection of gelato and sorbetto that includes soy, sugar-free and yogurt-based varieties (.99 for a small cup or cone, .99 for medium, .99 for large). The gelato is used to make creamy milkshakes and the sorbetto for fruit smoothies that cost .25 (.25 for large).

In addition to frozen treats, Baci has a crepe counter with two griddles for made-to-order dessert crepes. Nutella banana () and marshmallow caramel () are big enough to share. Add your favorite gelato to the confection for more.

A full menu of hot and cold coffees complements the desserts. In addition to espresso (), cappuccino (.25) and hot chocolate (.50), there are nine kinds of flavored frozen coffee drinks (including cinnamon, caramel and double fudge mocha), frosty favorites for those on the go (.25 for a medium, .25 for large).

Doron Ben Susan and Allen Aingorn, the owners, have a wholesale business supplying Baci Gelato to restaurants, hotels and gourmet markets by the multigallon tub. At this, their first retail store, you can take it home for .50 a pint, a quart.

Baci Gelato, 1136 Willis Avenue, Albertson; (516) 801-1706.

SUSAN M. NOVICK