Squaw Valley USA Ski Guide

Squaw Valley, Calif.; (530) 583-6985; www.squaw.com.

More Squaw Valley USA resources: Current Snow Conditions From SnoCountry.com Interactive Resort Webcam Interactive Aerial Map Trail Map (pdf) Related Ski Guides (December 6, 2007)

The first thing you see when you pull off Route 89 in North Lake Tahoe onto Squaw Valley's access road is the Olympic flame. It has burned there since 1960, when the resort was host to the Winter Olympics. It's a not-so-subtle reminder that this is hallowed skiing ground, but also that a dose of elitism accompanies this crown jewel of Tahoe resorts - elitism in that "Squallywood" attracts both the most hard-core of skiers, who are drawn to some of the best terrain in North America, and well-heeled Bay Area types, who have no problem forking over the ,800 for a season pass (,400 if bought before July 15) to revel in the on- and off-mountain scene that is Squaw.

In both regards, this mountain resort deserves its reputation. The steeps, trees and chutes off the KT-22 writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map1.html",1); and Granite Chief writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map2.html",2); lifts are the stuff of skiing legend. Even beginners get to experience the wide-open expanse of Squaw because adult lessons are based at the top of the High Camp cable car and Gold Coast funitel. For those more interested in off-snow options, the village is crammed with more than 50 restaurants and 40 shops that allow everyone to at least look the part in the newest lines of Patagonia and the North Face during après-ski pursuits.

STATS

Summit 9,050 feet Vertical Drop 2,850 feetTerrain 4,000 acresTrails More than 170 Lifts 34: 4 high-speed six-person chairs, 8 triple chairs, 10 double chairs, 4 quads, 5 surface lifts and magic carpets, 1 cable car, 1 gondola, 1 funitel Price for a full day Rentals to Average Season Mid-November to mid-May

BEST MORNING RUN The five intermediate Tree Runs writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map3.html",3); off the newly improved Shirley Lake six-pack express lift writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map4.html",4);, increasing in pitch and difficulty from fifth to first, are good places to gain some confidence for the rest of what Squaw has to offer. Plus, they're tucked away from the morning rush.

BEST AFTERNOON RUN If you're ambitious, running top-to-bottom laps on KT-22 writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map1.html",1); is an easy way to fill your vertical feet quota for the day. Then you can stumble into the après portion of your day at the popular Bar One, which is just a few feet away.

INSIDER'S TIP The Red Dog writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map5.html",5);and Squaw Creek writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map6.html",6); lifts are often forgotten, but they have plenty of options for almost all abilities, from wide blue cruisers to advanced tree lines still filled in with powder from the 50-inch storm that barreled through three days ago.

FAMILY INFORMATION Children have their own 12,000-square-foot dedicated learning center from which a pony tow and two magic carpets take off. There is also a slew other activities that start from High Camp writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map7.html",7);, the resort's mid-mountain compound. It features an ice rink and heated outdoor pool (it opens in March). Children 12 and under also ski for every day. Information: (530) 581-7225.

DINING

Breakfast Regulars descend on the eclectic Squeeze In (10060 Donner Pass Road; 530-587-9814; www.squeezein.com) in Truckee for one of their 63 omelet options (.75 to .50). But if it snowed the night before, pick up a meat-egg-and-cheese breakfast biscuit (.50) at the Sierra Sunrise Biscuit Company in the base of the cable car station to eat on the ride up.

On-Mountain Dining Squaw has all the typical on-mountain options, including Gordon Biersch garlic fries (.50, and a Bay Area favorite), at the Sundeck Tavern in the base area. The best in-between-runs snack is a still-warm chocolate chip cookie () from Wildflour Too bakery at High Camp writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map7.html",7);.

Low-End, In-Town Dining Casa Baeza (10004 Bridge Street; 530-587-2161) in Truckee has good Mexican burritos () and enchiladas (.75, with rice and beans), but the heady house margaritas (.50) are arguably an equal draw.

High-End, In-Town Dining Mamasake (1850 Village South Road; 530-584-0110; www.mamasake.com), in Squaw's base village, is often called Tahoe's best sushi spot. It features 22 creative maki rolls (.50 to ), including the New York Bagel Roll and the Italo Veggie Roll, as well as a range of hot appetizers, "Calasian" tapas and dinner plates.

NIGHT LIFE

Après-Ski With an outdoor bar, Adirondack chairs made out of old skis and a roaring fire pit, Le Chamois in the base area (530-583-4505), also called the Shammy, has been a fitting place to have a beer at the end of one of Tahoe's many bluebird afternoons since 1969. Remember that this is Squaw, though. Many freshen up back at the condo before making an appearance. So you just might be in the minority in your boots and bibs.

Après Après-Ski The Zenbu Tapas Lounge (530-583-9900) in the base village is the latest North Lake hot spot for the club crowd, featuring live bands and notable D.J.'s. The Bar of America in Truckee (10042 Donner Pass Road; 530-587-3110) is a popular and mellower alternative if velvet lounge booths and chest-thumping bass lines aren't your style.

LODGING

Frugal A handful of chain accommodations in Truckee near Interstate 80 or off Highway 267, like the Hampton Inn and Suites (888-587-1197; www.hamptoninntruckee.com) and Holiday Inn Express (800-465-4329; www.ichotelsgroup.com), start at about 0 a night in high season.

Not So Frugal The flat-screen TVs, granite vanities and plush duvets in the 405-room Resort at Squaw Creek writeMapLink("http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2008/02/14/travel/escapes/squaw_map8.html",8); (530-583-6300; www.squawcreek.com) pale in comparison to the ultimate amenity: a triple chair reaching the top of Squaw's Snow King peak from the doorstep of the hotel. It's so removed from the rest of the mountain that it's almost like your own private lift and terrain. Deluxe rooms start at about 0 a night.

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