The Gift Is in the Mail, and on the Web

TWENTY-FIVE years after writing my first column on sweet, savory and useful mail-order gifts for the holidays - one filled with imported goodies - I'm amazed by how butchers, bakers and candy makers around this country keep coming up with delectable surprises.

Jeni's of Columbus, Ohio, has surpassed the creativity of all other ice cream makers with its versions like goat cheese and Cognac fig sauce.

The American lamb from Lava Lake Ranch in Idaho was not only succulent, but grass fed, organic and dry aged. And I found the ideal homemade rugelach in, of all places, New Hampshire.

The Internet, of course, has made the selection ever more enticing, even if some providers aren't quite used to using the Web.

Preparations can arrive with inadequate directions or packaging, like the plastic bag of tomato bisque that spilled all over my refrigerator. Some sites won't allow you to ship anywhere other than the billing address, taking some of the convenience out of using the Web. Sometimes it took three tries to place an order.

And there is, of course, a lot of food out there that is just not very good.

But I've double-checked everything here. Anything I liked was reordered under another name, to ensure that everyone is treated as well as The New York Times. Prices don't include shipping unless stated, and the latest date to ship for Dec. 24 delivery is noted.

Unless marked, Visa, MasterCard and American Express are all accepted.

SWEET

ICE CREAM Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams' intense, offbeat flavors would be worth a drive to Ohio. My favorites were the goat cheese, salty caramel, coffee, Thai chili and torrone, plus lime cardamom lingonberry frozen yogurt and forest berry and pear riesling sorbets. Six pints start at ; jenisicecreams.com, (614) 488-3224 (Dec. 19).

OATMEAL COOKIES A sprinkling of coarse-grain salt makes meal-size Salty Oats cookies from Kayak Cookies - regular and chocolate - irresistible. Six for .95; kayakcookies.com, (240) 460-3237 (Dec. 19).

RUGELACH Beth Ann Betz bakes quintessential rugelach in her New Hampshire kitchen. They are cinnamony rolls of butter, cream cheese and sugar stuffed with raisins. For 40 pieces, .95 includes shipping; pastry shipped upon receipt of check or money order to Betz Baking, Box 15, West Chesterfield, N.H., 03466; betzbaking@yahoo.com, (603) 256-8625 (Dec. 15).

HUMMINGBIRD CAKE Allen Brothers of Chicago is known for meats but even better is this cake, weighing almost five pounds with pecans, bananas, pineapple and cream-cheese frosting, .95; allenbrothers.com, (800) 957-0111 (Dec. 20).

CHEESECAKE Farmstead goat cheese, mascarpone, a flash of lemon curd and cream cheese make Triple Fresh Cheese Cake from Eli's Cheesecake a new take on the genre. Just as unusual is burnt caramel cheesecake flan with a salty touch from the almond crust. Each serves 12, ; elicheesecake.com, (800) 999-8300 (Dec. 19). .

BLOOD ORANGE MOUSSE TORTE The psychedelic color of the glaze covers a beautifully balanced sweet and tart mousse with orange purée, marmalade and génoise. Serves 14, includes shipping. From Plaza Sweets, plazasweetsbakery.com, (800) 816-8416 (Dec. 19).

APPLE PIE The Elegant Farmer's apple pies baked in a paper bag, ready for the oven, let you fool guests into thinking you made them from scratch. Try the traditional or caramel apple pie, .99; elegantfarmer.com, (262) 363-6770, no American Express (Dec. 19).

ENGLISH PUDDINGS Made in Texas by a transplanted Briton, Sticky Toffee Pudding Company's namesake and its English lemon and sticky ginger puddings are light and luscious. Six puddings are ; stickytoffeepuddingcompany.com, (512) 472-0039 (Dec. 19).

ESPRESSO CAKE A devastatingly rich chocolate ganache with brewed coffee infusion ready for puffs of whipped cream serves 8 to 10. It is from Neiman Marcus; neimanmarcus.com, (800) 825-8000 (Dec. 19).

SAVORY

LAMB CHOPS Grass-fed organic lamb from Lava Lake Ranch in Idaho is as delicate and flavorful as anything from New Zealand, but it's dry-aged, with a perfect sustainable pedigree. Racks of eight chops, ; flavorful sausages, one-pound package, .99; lavalakelamb.com, (208) 788-1710 (Dec. 18).

BARBECUED BRISKET Five pounds of prime beef, tender, well-seasoned and fully cooked, from Lobel's is 9.95; lobels.com, (877) 783-4512 (Dec. 14).

BISON STRIP STEAKS Rich and juicy New York grass-fed buffalo steaks, at least one and a quarter inches thick, from Ottomanelli Brothers are .95 a pound; ottomanellibros.com, (888) 688-6276 (Dec. 15).

FROM NEIMAN MARCUS Pork loin stuffed with fruits, five to five and a half pounds, 5; strudel with five kinds of mushrooms and three kinds of cheese, serves eight, ; perfectly seasoned tortilla soup with roasted chilies from the chef Dean Fearing serves 8 to 10, ; neimanmarcus.com, (800) 825-8000 (Dec. 19).

CULINARY HERB BASKET Bring the summer inside. A rusty wire holder gives the perfect country look, with pots of thyme, oregano, rosemary and sage, .95; surlatable.com, (800) 243-0852 (Dec. 10).

CURED MEATS The garlic-scented salametto salami from Paul Bertolli's Fra'Mani label is handmade, .95 for one and a half pounds. One pound of delicately sweet and tender duck breast lightly smoked over apple wood, . Shipping included; chefshop.com, (800) 596-0885 (Dec. 17).

PREPARED DISHES Pika's Farm Table in Upstate New York uses mostly local ingredients to make a quart of velvety butternut squash soup, ; nine-inch lobster quiche for and eight ounces of basil pesto without nuts but plenty of parmigiano, ; PayPal or checks, Box 59, Big Indian, N.Y. 12410; pikasquiche.com, (845) 254-5884 (Dec. 18).

DIPS Very Vera makes pimento cheese spread just like momma used to make down South, one pound, ; and don't forget the wickedly rich Vidalia onion dip, 23 ounces for ; veryvera.com, (800) 500-8372 (Dec. 18).

PARTY FOOD Puff pastry encases a rich mixture of Gruyère, red and yellow peppers, and artichokes in a tart from Mackenzie Ltd. that serves six to eight, .95; spicy curried Thai chicken serves six, .95; 18 twice-baked red potatoes, just right for steak or chicken, .95; mackenzieltd.com, (800) 858-7100 (Dec. 19).

ACCESSORIES

PLATES VivaTerra makes smart-looking plates of recycled glass with a matte finish in shades from subtle sea foam to intense amethyst, in sets of four: 11-inch chargers, 9; 10-inch dinner plates, 9; and 7-inch salad size, ; vivaterra.com, (800) 233-6011 (Dec. 12).

WOODEN UTENSILS For the table, Tribbles Home and Garden sells some things made of beautifully grained sustainable woods: contemporary salad servers of rosewood and stainless steel are 2; a chunky olive wood serving spoon, .50; and four charming palm wood Thai spice bowls, which can be used as salt cellars, for the set; tribbleshomeandgarden.com, (877) 965-8742 (Dec. 18).