The World Cup Made Easy: Munich

Munich has come a long way in shedding its stodgy, hard-drinking image. The city, the safe, green and wealthy capital of Bavaria, is now ranked by Germans as the most desirable place to live, a standing reinforced by the new, doughnut-shaped Allianz Arena - perhaps the World Cup's most-talked about piece of architecture.

Weisswurst, traditional sausages, in Munich. More Photos »

Where to stay, eat, party and watch the matches free in Germany's 12 host cities.

GAMES The 2006 World Cup kicks off in Munich with Germany vs. Costa Rica on June 9. One of the least tantilizing matches, Tunisia vs. Saudi Arabia on June 14, will be followed by an interesting coupling, Brazil vs. Australia on June 18. The Ivory Coast takes on Serbia and Montenegro on June 21. The second round also starts there on June 24, and a semifinal is on July 5.

HOTELS Most hotels are clustered near the hauptbanhof, or main train station. Among the best is the InterCity (Bayerstrasse 10; 49-89-444-440; www.intercityhotel.de), with rooms starting around 90 euros a night. If that's sold out, Munich has a hotel booking service (49-89-233-96555, www.muenchen.de). Shut out in Munich? Try nearby Salzburg, just over the border in Austria.

NO TICKET? Go to the Olympiastadion. Built for the 1972 Games, this fabulous open-air arena seats 20,000 and will feature a giant video screen, live concerts and soccer forums.

BAR Munich is the beer garden capital. Expect large crowds at the Augustiner-Keller, the oldest beer garden in the city (Arnulfstrasse 52; 49-89-59-4393). For a quirkier scene, the Hirschgarten (Hirschgarten 1; 49-89-17-2591; www.hirschgarten.de) near the Nymphenburg Palace has a large seating area for children and, oddly enough, live deer.

DOWNTIME A naturist at heart? The Schönfeldwiese, a meadow in the center of the sprawling Englischer Garden, is the place for you. It is reserved for nude sunbathing, and will be packed with all manner of humanity.